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Nightlife

From the Time Out Guide to Madrid

“Everything you’ve heard about traffic jams in the small hours and office workers heading straight to work from the clubs is true; the madrileños’ reputation as party fiends is more than justified, despite municipal meddling and earlier closing times. El terraceo (terrace-hopping) is the preferred nightlife activity during the city’s warmer months.

For straightforward drinking, the perennial favourites are Viva Madrid (C/Manuel Fernández y González 7, 91 429 36 40) and Los Gabrieles (C/Echegaray 17, 91 429 62 61), with their fabulous floor-to-ceiling tiling (and wall-to-wall tourists), and the dusty old tabernas around Los Austrias, with aproned barmen and vermut pulled from silver taps. For a younger, funkier atmosphere, Malasaña has it all, from cineaste’s delight Pepe Botella (C/San Andrés 12, 91 522 43 09) to the Iberian Friends set that is La Ida (C/Colón 11, 91 522 91 07, closed 1wk Aug).

For bar-hopping until 2am or thereabouts, C/Huertas, the Plaza Santa Ana and the streets around are unbeatable. Close by, you’ll also find the monster seven-floor Kapital (C/Atocha 125, 91 420 2906, www.grupo-kapital.com, closed Mon-Wed), with every kind of music and a rooftop bar for gazing at the stars, and the sassy techno den the Room (C/Arlabán 7, 91 523 86 54, Fridays only). A stone’s throw away is the eclectic Lavapiés, popular with the bohemian crowd. For traditional flamenco performances, Casa Patas (C/Cañizares 10, Lavapiés, 91 369 04 96, www.casapatas.com, closed Sun) is a highly prized, if pricey, establishment. For glitzy monster discos, explore the triangle between Sol, Callao and Gran Via. Joy Eslava (C/Arenal 11, 91 366 37 33, www.joy-esclava.com) is the granddaddy of them all. Nearby is the stylish Cool (C/Isabel la Católica 6, 91 542 34 39, closed Mon-Wed), where the crowd and the decor wrestle for aesthetic supremacy.

Chueca is the centre of Madrid’s gay scene, but it’s also the place to be for the determinedly hip. Though its hub is the Plaza de Chueca, itself thronging with terrazas in summer, close by are mixed bars such as Stars Café (C/Marqués de Valdeiglesias 5, 91 522 2712, closed Sun & 2wks Aug) or Liquid (C/Barquillo 8, 91 532 7428, closed Mon).

Just when you thought it was all over, it’s time to head to ‘los afters’, Sunday morning clubs that refuse to keep the Sabbath holy. Now officially illegal, they still thrive, but open and close with gay abandon – keep an eye out for flyers or ask around to find them.”

Culture

Museo del Prado

Few visitors to Madrid would want to miss out on a visit to one of the art world's holy grails. Lovers of Spanish art will particularly enjoy the coverage given to the big three - VelÁzquez, Goya and El Greco. Minor Spanish artists such as de Ribera and Murillo are also represented, along with a fair sprinkling of Flemish and Italian masters. Of course, with a museum this size you really should visit more than once, particularly as fewer than half of the collection is ever on view at any given time.

Don't miss Madrid's other two art fests, the Thyssen-Bornemisza and Reina Sofía collections, representing (respectively) European and modern Spanish movements. The Reina Sofía collection is dominated by Picasso's masterly Guernica.

Habsburg Madrid

The imperial legacy of Habsburgs Carlos I, Felipe II and their successors can best be seen in the area surrounding the Puerta del Sol (Sun Gate), Madrid's official central point. A short stroll west lies Plaza Mayor, a popular stage over the centuries for royal festivities, autos-de-fe and bullfights, and today thronged with open-air cafes. The Baroque Basilica de San Isidro, away to the south, is home to the remains of the city's patron saint. West of the plaza is the 17th-century Ayuntamiento (town hall), a typical Habsburg structure of granite and slate spires.

Palacio Real

This Italianate Baroque colossus of some 2800 rooms was begun by Felipe V following the destruction by fire of its forerunner, the AlcÁzar, in 1734. Around 50 rooms are open to visitors. The first rooms are taken up by the Farmacia Real, a seemingly endless parade of medicine jars, and the Armería Real, a shiny collection of Habsburg weapons and armour. A grand stairway leads to the royal apartments, culminating in the Throne Room's giddy concoction of crimson walls and Tiepolo ceilings.

Just to the south of the palace is the Moorish quarter, one of Madrid's oldest districts. There's a short stretch of city wall here, built by the early-medieval Muslim rulers in the 9th century. In summer the area is a venue for open-air theatre and music performances.

Music

Live Music

Bands don't usually appear on stage before 10pm and often wait until midnight. You can dance at some of these venues.

For bands and popular-music acts you can often get tickets at Madrid Rock (tel 91 521 02 39; Gran Via 25), a record store that accepts cash only. FNAC (Calle de Preciados) also sells tickets to major concerts.

Rock Concerts

Several venues are used for major concerts, whether Spanish groups or international acts. A common one is the Plaza de Toros Monumental de Las Ventas. Others include the former Antiguo Cuartel del Conde Duque (Calle del Conde Duque) and the Teatro Monumental (tel 91 429 81 19; Calle de Atocha 65). A smaller venue but one that regularly features acts from Spain and abroad is La Riviera (tel 91 435 85 08; Paseo de la Virgen del Puerto s/n), near the Puente de Segovia.

Jazz

Clamores Jazz Club
(tel 91 445 79 38; Calle de Alburquerque 14; metro Bilbao) is one of Madrid's better-known jazz haunts. Usually there is no cover charge, and the place gets a good selection of acts.
Cafe Populart
(tel 91 429 84 07; Calle de las Huertas 22) often has music, generally jazz or Celtic.
Cafe Central
(tel 91 369 47 43; Plaza del Angel 10), close to Populart, is another good choice for more jazz with your drinks.
Latin
Galileo Galilei
(tel 91 534 75 57; Calle de Galileo 100) has a mix of Hispanic dance groups and vocalists appearing.
El Son
(tel 91 532 32 83; Calle de la Victoria 6) rocks away daily from 7pm to the wee hours. Often they have live Cuban music, and midweek you can get in some saucy salsa lessons with the island's teachers.
Other
Suristan
(tel 91 532 39 09; Calle de la Cruz 7) hosts an eclectic selection of acts, from African through Cuban to ethnic fusion. It has become a key venue on the Madrid scene in the past few years. Music usually kicks off at 11.30pm and there is sometimes a cover charge (including a drink).
Cafe del Mercado
(tel 91 365 87 39; Ronda de Toledo 1) is where you can get into a whole range of different acts, from Spanish pop to blues, soul and occasionally even a little cabaret. You can drink on an airy terrace too.
Cafe La Raima
(tel 91 522 50 31; Calle de la Palma 62), with its blue, orange and red rooms (and one where you lounge on the floor rather than at little marble-topped tables) is a hip place to chill with ambient music, sometimes live and sometimes out of the can. The shows start around 10pm.

Classical Music & Opera
You can generally get tickets for plays, concerts and other performances at the theatre concerned, but there are centralized ticket offices too. Quite a few lottery-ticket booths also sell tickets for theatre, football and bullfights. Try the Localidades La Alicantina (Plaza de Santo Domingo), or Localidades Galicia (tel 91 531 27 32; Plaza del Carmen 1).
Telephone and Internet bookings are also possible. The Caixa de Catalunya operates the Tel-Entrada system, which covers many shows of all kinds. You call (tel 902 10 12 12), pay for tickets by credit card and pick them up at the theatre before the show starts. A similar option is the Caja de Madrid (tel 902 48 84 88).
Teatro Real
(tel 91 516 06 06; Plaza de Oriente s/n; bookings through branches of the Caja de Madrid bank) is the city's grandest stage. Tickets for the opera or ballet can range from €12, for a spot so far away you will need a telescope, to around €110.
Auditorio Nacional de Musica
(tel 91 337 01 00; Calle del Principe de Vergara 146) resounds to the sounds of classical music.
Fundacion Juan March
(tel 91 435 42 40; Calle de Castello 77), on a smaller scale, holds regular Sunday concerts.
Teatro Calderon
(tel 91 429 58 90; Calle de Atocha 18) plays second fiddle for opera if you can't get into the Teatro Real. On occasion it opts for lighter stuff and musicals.
Teatro de la Zarzuela
(tel 91 524 54 00; Calle de Jovellanos 4) is the place for that very Spanish genre of classical dance and music, the zarzuela, although it doesn't restrict its menu to this. The theatre was built in 1856 in a vague imitation of Milan's La Scala.
For other musical and operatic performances keep an eye on the Centro Cultural de la Villa and Teatro Monumental (tel 91 429 12 81; Calle de Atocha 65).

Restaurants:

The amount of different dining experiences possible in Madrid make writing this section quite a challenge: The oldest restaurant in the world is in Madrid, so one can imagine the long and varied history of the City’s food.

Flamenco, Tapas, Old World restaurants all vie with some of the newest and most vibrant culinary delights!  One of the best guides is found in ablog format written by both owners and visitors to the restaurants. http://www.madaboutmadrid.com/guide/madrid_restaurants/index.html

Three to Try…

Restaurant Zalacain: Chef Benjamin Urdiain opened Restaurant Zalacain in 1973. Five years later he had garnered two Michelin Stars, and in 1987 was awarded a third, tops for Michelin restaurants. Cuisine is based on Basque dishes, featuring seafood and game. Don't go before 10:30 pm for dinner. Lunch and dinner: Euros80-150 per person. Reserve. Jacket and tie dress code. (Alvarez de Baena, 4, 28006 Madrid, Spain; Tel: 34.1.561.4840, Fax: 561.4732 METRO: Ruben Dario.)

La Broche as a new entry into Madrid's culinary reawakening:  (31 Calle Miguel àngel; 34-91/399-3437; dinner for two Euros 95) “ the city's most thrilling new restaurant."

Kitsch The Guiness Book of World Records calls it the oldest restaurant in the World, and Hemmingway really did eat there… Casa Botín. Opened in 1725. (Botín Restaurant, Cuchilleros 17, near Plaza Mayor, Metro: Sol. Telephone (+34) 913 664217 / 913 663026. Open every day. Nearby parking. Spanish (Castillian) cuisine.)

Shops:

The city is full of interesting nooks to explore and feed the shopper's soul. Everything from high fashion (local and imported) through to flea markets and grand delicatessens are on offer.

For the best in chichi fashion outlets, Calle de Serrano, in the haughty Salamanca district, is the main address. More fun for fashion victims is Calle del Almirante and the immediate area, near Chueca.

Leather is a good buy. Shoes in particular, but also bags and other items, are generally well made. Opinion is divided on ceramics. Madrid itself does not have a tradition of ceramic production, but there are several shops that collect stuff from around the country.

Two classics of Spanish shopping are Lladro porcelain figurines and Majorica pearls. Along Gran Via, in particular (especially between Plaza de Espana and Plaza de Callao), you will find a string of shops selling one, the other, or both.

Various markets, above all El Rastro, liven up the city at the weekend.

Convenience Stores
For late-night attacks of the munchies and other emergencies, there is a sprinkling of shops across central Madrid. VIPS is the most widespread chain. 7-Eleven (Calle del Arenal 28; open 24 hrs), with several branches, is another option.

Markets
On Sunday morning, the Embajadores area of Madrid seems to contain half the city's population as all and sundry converge on El Rastro (8am-2pm Sunday & holidays), the flea market. Starting from Plaza de Cascorro, its main axes are Ribera de Curtidores and Calle de los Embajadores. Much of what's on sale is rubbish, but the atmosphere alone is worth the effort, and you can find interesting items. There are a good many junk and antique shops scattered about. Watch out for pickpockets.
A less touristy flea market is the Sunday-morning Mercadillo Marques de Viana (9am-2pm Sunday & holidays), held on and around the street of the same name in the Tetuan barrio. You'll find abundant fresh produce, second-hand clothes stalls and all sorts of junk at what is also known as El Rastrillo, the little brother of the more famous version.
Another Sunday-morning classic is Mercadillo de Sellos y Monedas (9am-2pm Sunday & holidays), the stamp and coin collectors' market held under the arches of Plaza Mayor. Nearby on Plaza del Conde de Barajas you can visit an art market (10am-2pm Sunday).
For handicrafts of vastly varying quality and interest, wander around the market (6am-10pm Saturday) which is held on Plaza de las Comendadoras.
Clothing & Fashion
You'll find many international fashion names on or off Calle de Serrano, including:
Armani (Calle de Serrano 8); the successful Gallego fashion house Adolfo Dominguez (Calle de Serrano 18); Max Mara (Calle de Serrano 38); Gucci (Calle de Don Ramon de la Cruz 6); Kenzo (Calle de lose Ortega y Casset 15); Loewe (Calle de Serrano 36) and Louis Vuitton (Calle de Jose Ortega y Casset 17).
El Jardin de Serrano
(tel 97 577 00 12; Calle de Coy a 6-8) is an elegant complex of stores. You can do more fashion shopping, or simply shop fashionably. Tea and cakes are available at the Mallorca cafe which looks onto a garden.
Calle del Almirante, which runs east from Plaza de Chueca, is a hipper showcase for younger fashion, also well worth exploring. Specific places to look out for include:
Ararat
(tel 91 310 34 55; Calle del Almirante 10, 11 & 13). This is one of the more interesting clothing stores along this alternative fashion street. Women go to Nos 10 and 11 and men to No 13.
Capas de Sesena
(tel 91 531 68 40; Calle de la Cruz 23). Need a fashionable cape? This is the place. Hillary Clinton shopped here on the odd occasion she and Bill used to come to town.
Mercado Fuencarral
(Calle de Fuencarral 115). Inside this building is a clan of 30 or so small-scale fashion shops appealing to the young urban set that has money but likes to appear bereft of income.
Moda Shopping
(Avenida del General Peron 40). This glass-domed mall houses enough boutiques to keep most fashion shoppers busy for hours.
Pedro Munoz
(tel 91 577 26 53; Calle de Serrano 72). Here you'll find formal and casual menswear. The composer Manuel de Falla lived in the building for several years.
Purificacion Garcia
(tel 91 435 80 13; Calle de Serrano 92 & Calle de Serrano 28). Young people flock here, attracted by the fresh designs and moderate prices. Minimalist stores are the framework for upfront men's and women's pret-a-porter.
Zara
(tel 91 522 97 27; Gran Via 32 & Calle de Preciados 20). This is the most successful Spanish fashion store internationally and has more than 20 branches around town.

 

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